As you know, crash mats are an integral part of bouldering safety. However, just as with anything else, they only work if used properly. In this article we shall explain the simple steps to check that your mats are safe to use, and how to set them up correctly for the best bouldering experience.
What Crash Mats Actually Do
A bouldering crash pad is designed to absorb falls and provide protection for your ankles, wrists and back by reducing the impact of an uncontrolled fall. Note that crash pads are not 100% effective at preventing all injuries. There are limits to what a bouldering crash pad can do and it is very important that you have a good understanding of these.
Check the Mat Before You Climb
Check the Bouldering Crash Mat Before Climbing. Bouldering crash mats are made from foam and as with most products made from foam over time the padding can start to lose its protective quality. Before your session at the climbing wall give the mat a firm press in several spots. If it feels flat, lumpy or has compressed in the centre then it has most likely lost a large portion of its protective qualities. In most cases bouldering crash mats need to be replaced or re-foamed.
Position the Mat Under the Problem
Place the mat directly below the part of the bouldering problem that you feel is the riskiest for a fall. For very overhanging problems, you may also need to place the mat a few inches away from the wall as the climber will likely fall outwards from the wall. A small gap between the edge of the mat and the wall is preferable to falling half on and half off the mat.
Moving Mats Between Attempts
When moving a bouldering mat from one problem to another, ensure that no other climbers are above you or nearby and could fall during your move. Also be mindful of the weight of the mat and attempt to push in a straight line as much as possible, rather than flipping the mat heavily from side to side. This will help to ensure that the mat lands flat and that it is correctly positioned for your attempt.
Spotting Your Partner
The important thing to remember is that one person is climbing at any time, and the other person is spotting. The role of the spotter is to guide the climber’s hips or lower back onto the mat in the event of a fall. For more information on fall safety and spotting see the British Mountaineering Council.
When One Mat Is Not Enough
For taller boulders or traverses you may need to use two or more mats, which should be laid on top of each other without any gaps between them.
A useful reference for Bouldering is https://www.270climbing.com/bouldering/.
A little thought to the setup of your bouldering crash mats each session can make for a safe environment in which to practice your falls.
